At the heart of the recent Nepal regulations for Everest, was yet another rule that you first need to climb a 7,000 meter (22,965.88 feet) high peak.
It may be in place next year, 2027, or maybe not. This year you can still sneak in under the wire, if that’s what you choose to do.
And the 7,000 metre peak you climb needs to be in Nepal.
So Denali won’t qualify you for an Everest expedition obviously, or summiting Aconcagua, though it nearly touches 7,000 meters. Even the technical challenges of Ama Dablam miss the height regulation by quite a few metres.
Suddenly peaks like the ever increasingly popular Himlung Himal, at 7,126 meters (23,425 feet), becomes desirable. You get to climb a Nepal peak for a fraction of the Everest cost and enjoy a very fine climb in its’ own right.
Will that prepare you for Everest, make it any safer, or increase your likelihood of success? Or does it just generate more tourism dollars and peak fees for Nepal?
Along with the call for reaching 7,000 meters, vaguely worded regulations call for climbing and health checks, and the need to climb with a Nepali Guide – as well as work with a certified company with some experience and who will charge you at least US$35,000.00.
Some variations of these rules have been thrown out the door of the Ministries and trodden on in years past, so far with little significance. And even this one has yet to make it through all the steps it needs to, to be passed into law. So perhaps there will be a rush of even less experienced climbers this year?
Considering the Everest permit fee continues to go up, that leaves a shrinking pool of funds for the guiding company, staff, oxygen and all the associated logistics. Local companies will negotiate on prices for you, but don’t plan on them helping much should you need good advice, support, or another bottle or two of oxygen when you are high on the mountain. One only needs to look at the accident/death rates for local Nepali guiding companies to see how saving money on Everest doesn’t work out that well for some.
So will that climb to 7,000 meters make Everest any safer? If you are one of those who I heard of last year, who were stomping around in Chukung below Island Peak, fitting their crampons out of the box and trying them out for the first time in the lodge, perhaps. At least getting your crampons fitted on an earlier expedition will be a start.
And the need to take time to climb, to work with others, to exist at altitude, to learn a few added skills, can only be a good thing.
However, Himlung is but one option, and there are some very fine peaks, all less traveled than Everest, to get to 7,000 metres and have a rather grand adventure.
And a few more 7000-Metre Peaks to consider in Nepal
1. Himlung Himal (7,126 m)
2. Baruntse (7,129 m) – In the Khumbu region, often climbed as preparation for 8000ers: great views of Makalu, Everest, and Lhotse.
3. Pumori (7,161 m) Right next to Everest, though more technical than the easier 7,000 metre options and can be avalanche prone. You’ll get the feel for the Khumbu and spectacular views of Everest.
5. Putha Hiunchuli (7,246 m) Close to Dhaulagiri, sometimes referred to as Dhaulagiri 7.
6. Gangapurna (7,455 m) In the Annapurna range with some more technical climbing sections and great ridge-top views.
7. Nuptse (7,861 m) So could you go up and climb Nuptse as your 7,000er, then move straight on to Everest? Worth a try for the truly confident.
8. Saipal Himal (7,031 m) The westernmost 7000er in Nepal, very remote and logistically challenging but will certainly be a worthy warm-up – if not more difficult than Everest.
