Arriving at Everest Base Camp at the bottom of the top of the world, and being all out of breath, just doesn’t feel like the best way to start climbing Everest.

Wouldn’t it be better to stomp in, wind in your teeth, ready to climb higher as the next morning breaks?

This year, a small team will try just that, feasting on xenon gas to hopefully (perhaps very hopefully—we’ll see) start their ascent the next day and climb straight to the summit over the next few days, trot down, and fly home within a week.

Whether just trekking to Everest Base Camp as we did In Hillary’s Footsteps, or settling in at Base Camp for the longer stay and attempt on Everest, those final small hills up the glacier still leave most of us gasping for air for a few days.

Then the climbers have to make repeated trips under avalanche-prone ridges and through the toppling seracs of the Khumbu Icefall, which doesn’t necessarily help your confidence much either.

This year, it has all started well on Everest for most: with the Icefall fixed and Sherpas and drones hauling supplies up to Camp 2.

Climbers are choosing to acclimatize faster than ever, turning on the oxygen earlier, with reports of some leaving Base Camp with their masks already in place.

Long gone are the days when real men and women considered it part of the challenge to reach the South Col before turning on their oxygen.

Many are opting for alternatives—from acclimatizing on Lobuche to spending a month or two in a hypoxia tent before they leave home.

Or you could sign up for a rapid or “flash” ascent and take a month off your expedition time. With pre-acclimatization and an extra dose of oxygen, you hopefully sprint to the summit.

The idea of acclimatizing on another peak before Everest certainly isn’t new. It worked well in 1953 when the first ascent team climbed the South Summit of Island Peak in the Imja Valley.

When Russell Brice at Himex switched from guiding on Everest’s North Side to the South Side, he popularized summiting and sleeping atop Lobuche East (6,119 meters/20,075 ft). This strategy avoided one Icefall rotation and reduced Sherpa load carrying through that treacherous zone.

The idea quickly caught on. Now companies like Mike Hamill’s Climb the Seven Summits (CTSS) use Lobuche routinely. Some trekkers now complain their peaceful peak has turned into a crowded basecamp.

For a quicker climb to the top of the world, Adrian Ballinger’s, Alpenglow and Lukas Furtenbach’s, Furtenbach Adventures, extoll the virtues of their “Rapid Ascent,” “Lightening Ascent” and “Flash” expeditions. With pre-acclimitaztion in altitude tents, and oxygen turned on, often as low as Camp 2 at 6,400 metres (21,000 feet), it suddenly takes Everest a whole lot lower in terms of altitude.

This year, Furtenbach has also introduced the xenon gas experiment—touted as everything from a miracle drug to a dangerous gimmick. The UIAA warns:

“According to current literature, there is no evidence that breathing in xenon improves performance in the mountains, and inappropriate use can be dangerous…”

Still, the climbers using it this season are experienced and some have summited Everest before. At the very least, they’ll know the terrain and risks as they attempt a rapid ascent. And what would Everest be if without a bit of controversy.

And yes, with more oxygen comes more logistics—and a higher price tag. Alpenglow’s Rapid Ascents are listed at USD $98,000, with Furtenbach’s Flash expedition at €103,900.

Want it both fast and fancy? Upgrade to the Signature Expedition for €199,000 (USD $213,084.91). And for the week long Xenon Gas Experiment, you can still sneak in now perhaps for just $154,000. Remember, time is money.

Despite the cost, rapid ascents are growing in popularity, thanks to recent good weather years and the increasing appeal of a shorter climb.

But this approach also demands your oxygen system works flawlessly and is always available. As Mark Horrell wisely notes, the risks are high if you’re delayed or run out of supply. You may find yourself in a very vulnerable position.

Some still follow the traditional route—two or three acclimatization rotations including nights at Camp 1, Camp 2, and Camp 3. These trips build pacing, familiarity, and confidence, even as they increase time in the dangerous Icefall.

Repeated trips teach when to push and when to rest. You hone your gear and gain valuable experience. You might even enjoy the journey.

 

 

On my first summit attempt on the south side with David Hamilton, on the 50th anniversary ascent of the first ascent of Everest, we were turned back above the South Col at 8,300 meters in a blizzard. We retreated to Camp 2. A few days later, we were back—stronger and more confident. Our prior climb made the return easier.

Acclimatization meant we could rescue a fellow climber, give up our oxygen, and spend 27 hours above the South Col—and still descend safely. David Hamilton went on to guide a total of ten times to the top of Everest: he was off to a good start.

With every acclimatization method, there are trade-offs. If you go the “Flash” route, understand the risks: your fast ascent must be matched by a fast descent.

The traditional approach means more time in danger zones, but also better conditioning and appreciation of the mountain’s beauty. The Icefall and Lhotse Face may be deadly, but they’re also magnificent. Wandering through the Western CWM is unforgettable.

Middle ground strategies, like acclimatizing on nearby peaks, offer scenic training and extra insight into the region.

Add in guidance from high-altitude researchers like Dr. Peter Hackett and medications like Diamox, and you might find a slow, steady climb is more rewarding than racing to the top.

Ultimately, your best acclimatization choice reflects your motivation.

Do you want to climb Everest to experience its heights, people, and majesty—perhaps to savor the journey, its challenges, and the culture that surrounds it?

Or do you just want to race up Everest—and get it over with?

Your choice of pace reveals what the mountain means to you, and undoubtedly what you take away.