shishipangma, neimsdai, robertmadsanderson

Shishipangma here we come. Nims on the move and weather improving for the weekend

Is a weekend climb of Shishipangma in the cards for Nims?

They are off tomorrow from Advanced Base Camp, up alongside the glacier, then out onto the mountain itself for a carry to Camp 1 on Shishipangma. 

Camp 1 is low enough and sheltered enough to hopefully be out of the high winds, which are still racking the top. With ABC winds forecast at 55 km. and a mild -8 celsius temperature today, a hike up onto the mountain shouldn’t be too bad tomorrow.

However, good to see the Puja, as I did first learn of the importance of the Lama’s lucky days on my own climb of Shishipangma. Despite all the graphs, charts and satellite communications, it is good to know there is plenty of magic still left in the mountains at times.

With the high winds and winter conditions recently, it will be interesting to see what conditions are like, though they are unlikely to give them much of an idea what could of happened higher.

Meanwhile, at the top, todays winds are still whistling at over 100 km. and temperatures are hovering at -22c. That means windchill is around a rather frighting -40. Whether you feel this in c. or f., it is pretty much the same.

Nims has also had an extra day to send along thanks to his team, a group who have been with him to various degrees across a wide range of the peaks.

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. The team, the trust and the pure brotherhood. . Featuring @geljen_sherpa_ and @gesmantamang . @geljen_sherpa_ would complete 9 x 8000m peak of which he climbed 7x8000ers with me. . @gesmantamang would complete 7x8000m peak of which he climbed 6 x 8000ers with me. . I’m glad to be giving an opportunity to my fellow Sherpa brothers. . I will be updating on @mingma_david_sherpa , @zekson_srpa & @halungdorchi Sherpa soon. . . . 📸 @sandro.g.h #nimsdai #14peaks7months #bremontprojectpossible #uksf #extremeoftheextreme #nolimit #silxo #ospreyeurope #antmiddleton #digi2al #adconstructiongroup #omnirisc #summitoxygen #inmarsat #thrudark #gurkhas #sherpas #elitehimalayanadventures #alwaysalittlehigher #nimsdai #beyondpossible #achieveyournewpossible

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It will be interesting to see what the winds have done with the snow up higher. Prevailing winds funnel up through Camp 2 and over the Col at Camp 3. From there, climbing is mostly done on the lee and eastern side of the ridge. It could be deep snow, wind slab, or all blown clear down to lower layers – the Himalayas seem to bring a mix of all of those conditions all at once.

The hope would be the ridge between the lower summit they will reach first and the frightening and often dangerous ridge leading to the true summit will be stable.

The summit ridge on Shishipangma from the Tibetan Plateau. The route comes up out of the clouds on the right and goes along the ridge to the true summit. 


For more background and some of Nims top posts, photos and videos, here is some good inspiration:

Posted Saturday, 19 October

“I have bleed from every angle and it’s been horrifically amazing journey.”    #Nimsdai.

Highlights in words and video from the 8,000 meter peaks – the story so far

There are a lot of numbers in the record Nims is attempting. The 8,000 meter peaks. All 14 of them. All in 7 months. All at the age of 36. 

The real story however, is about the triumph of the human spirit over a host of challenges, any one of which could of stopped this venture dead in its tracks.

His short, dramatic video introducing the expeditions didn’t mince words, it didn’t use words like attempt, or maybe.

“What has taken others nearly 8 years to achieve, Nims will achieve in just 7 months.”

For anyone who has even contemplated doing just one of the 8,000 meter peaks, you have to start with a dream, a belief that you can do it. And not just a belief, a heartfelt conviction. 

You will naturally have doubts, fears, naysayers and perhaps face financial hurdles.  

You will have to turn all that aside, turn inside to your heart and really work out if you really want to do it. And like in climbing Everest, ego and elevation  may be as much the challenge as anything physical you will face and numbers you have to conquer. 

Your decision, like all climbing decisions, won’t be very rationale. Climbing never is.

Now, for Nims, multiply that “I am going to climb all these peaks, in 7 months,” dream and fit it into a crazy timetable. Then take a 2nd mortgage on your home and become your own biggest fundraiser.

Then go out publicly and proclaim it across all those less than kind social channels. You will now be up on a very tall and very shaky pedestal.

Looking at what Nims is saying in his Instagram posts, the numbers fade and the immensity of the challenge comes to the fore. It is interesting to see how his writings, his photos and his focus has changed over the last 6 months. It is in many ways heartening English is his second language, his writing is direct, clear, and with the clarity that comes from not having a bunch of extra qualifiers softening the experience.

Certainly he was dealing with many doubters in the early days, at a level he doesn’t even think worth repeating – as he says “you just keep digging in and working hard for it.”

Here from Annapurna you get a feel for his personality. Not many of us would have been  smiling at that altitude in the conditions they were facing.

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. 2017 when I said, I will climb Everest, lhotse and Makalu within 2 weeks, people made the joke out of me but I climbed all those mountains within 5 days and that’s including me stopping for 2 days to celebrate “everest day” at Namchee otherwise this could have been achieved within 3 days. . This year when I said; I will climb all 14×8000 m peaks within 7 months; only I know what I have been told ..( never mind) . To those believers out there, never let anyone to tell you that -you aren’t capable of doing something you believe in. Only you know what you are capable of doing 👊🏼💥🤙🏼. You just keep digging in and keep working hard for it. . Thank you @donbowie for taking this clip brother.🖤 . . #nimsdai #believer #uksf #sbs🐸 #projectpossible #14peaks7months #annapurna19 #gurkhas #sherpas #persistence #nolimits #humanendeavour #limitless #selfbelief #determination #positivemindset #beliveinyourself #hamasteel #digi2al #antmiddleton #summitoxygen #inmarsat #blackdiamond #everence #bremont #elitehimalayanadventures #alwaysalittlehigher #nimsdai #beyondpossible #achieveyournewpossible

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As he set on on the first of April for Annapurna, he posted:

“I am at my happy place again. Absolutely pleased to be back here since Jun 2017. Game on 🤙🏼

Simple, direct, echoing a love of the mountains and climbing amongst them.

Seven months ago the odds looked decidedly long, like one chance in a 100, or more likely a 1,000. And that was to complete the venture.

We shouldn’t forget that the Himalayas, and the 8,000 meter peaks are dangerous, and on Everest alone, 11 people died this year. Nims seems to be climbing ups quickly and then more likely than not, stopping to rescue others on the way down.

Throughout the season, the rescues on Annapurna, the foul early season weather on K2, and finally, just the opportunity to get a permit to climb Shishipangma stacked up, and then were overcome.

If anyone doubted the climbing challenges faced, a quick flip through the videos showed deep snow, high winds and the team breaking track for others to the summits.

Dhaulagiri looked particularly unpleasant and it was certainly a season when a large number of climbers turned back without summiting. Not difficult to see why when you watch this. Himalayan misery at its best perhaps?

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. It’s impossible until it’s done ! . Please enjoy the clip and see what human body is capable of doing hence never limit yourself. . We embraced and hold ourself tight when the wind is super strong and climb when it slows down a bit, hence why it took hours for us to summit Dhaulagiri. We only reach the summit at 1800 hrs . The full team got complete at the summit around 1830 hrs and then back to base camp by 0700 the next morning to close the base camp and catch a Heli flight to Kanchenjunga base camp. . Wait out to watch full documentary soon 🙌🏽🙏 . . . #leadership #nimsdai #believer #uksf #sbs🐸 #projectpossible #bremont #14peaks7months #antmiddleton #persistence #nolimits #humanendeavour #limitless #selfbelief #determination #thrudark #positivemindset #beliveinyourself #hamasteel #digi2al #everence #summitoxygen #inmarsat #elitehimalayanadventures #alwaysalittlehigher #nimsdai #beyondpossible #achieveyournewpossible

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With Everest looming next, Nims stopped to take that iconic shot of the 100’s of climbers lined up on the summit ridge of Everest that was seen around the world.

Ten hours and forty-five minutes after reaching the top of the world, he was on the summit of Lhotse. For those of us fortunate to have seen the sunrise from the heights of Everest, his words resonated perfectly:

“I must say I THROUGHLY enjoyed the view with the sunrise, giving the life both to the mountaineers and to the planet earth.”

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. Just checking out my next mountains Lhotse and Makalu from the summit of Everest. At this point, I was wondering if I could break my previous speed records considering the traffic on that day.🤔 I must say, I THOROUGHLY enjoyed the view with the sunrise, giving the life to both the mountaineers and the planet earth. . Featuring @ospreypacks @ospreyeurope 🤙🏼. #ospreyeurope . . . #nimsdai #believer #uksf #sbs🐸 #projectpossible #14peaks7months #annapurna19 #gurkhas #sherpas #persistence #nolimits #humanendeavour #limitless #positivemindset #beliveinyourself #hamasteel #digi2al #antmiddleton #summitoxygen #inmarsat #blackdiamond #everence #bremont #visitnepal2020 #elitehimalayanadventures #alwaysalittlehigher #nimsdai #beyondpossible #achieveyournewpossible

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Having completed Phase 1 in Nepal, Nims moved to Pakistan, heading up the huge Diamir Face on Nanga Parbat. The joys of high altitude climbing and the deep snow are best shown in this video from the climb “LEAD, FOLLOW, OR GET OUT OF THE WAY”

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🔺LEAD, FOLLOW OR GET OUT OF THE WAY🔺 . Video footage from the summit push on Nanga Parbat. 🔺 Bremont Project Possible team trail blazed and open the route from base camp to C2. 🔺🔺 From camp 2 Sergi Mingote trail blazed 150 m and 2 Georgian climbers … Archil Badriashvili and Giorgi Tepnadze opened the rest of the route to C3. 🔺🔺🔺 From C3 to summit Bremont Project Possible team open and trail blazed the route to the summit and rest followed. 🔻 We were also told that if Bremont Project Possible team wasn’t there to do this then the summit would have been in jeopardy. . . #nimsdai #believer #uksf #bremontprojectpossible #bremontwatches #S300 #14peaks7months #persistence #nolimits #humanendeavour #limitless #selfbelief #determination #positivemindset #beliveinyourself #thrudark #hamasteel #digi2al #everence #summitoxygen #inmarsat #elitehimalayanadventures #alwaysalittlehigher #nimsdai #beyondpossible #achieveyournewpossible

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Nims moved into the heart of the Karakoram, quickly working his way through Gasherbrum 1 and 2, Broad Peak and onto K2.

In a year when as I hiked up the Baltoro, passing climbers and Sherpas headed down with stories of “snow over their heads” Nims headed up.

If anyone doubts his high altitude abilities, his undoubtably unscripted, unprompted and completely coherent monologue atop K2 is a reminder of just how well he climbs and thinks at high altitude.

From the early days of the challenge, of dealing with doubts, of needing to perhaps convince himself as much as others, the K2 video resonates with a sense of thanks and gratitude: from the Sherpas climbing with him, to the sponsors, to the supporter who have helped him out with his crowdfunding campaign, particularly in the early days when doubts were certainly greater than the peaks themselves.

K2 was a huge milestone, arguably the toughest and most uncertain of all the summits, particularly this year. Unlike Everest, he hadn’t climbed K2 before and it was to be all new to him. In a few final words, Nims sums it up as he heads for Shishipangma:

“But above all, we have came this far with great positive mindset, that willing to make things happen, great sense of humour, humility and the discipline factor we had to stick by. This project has certainly tested my ability of leadership and the management skills. I have certainly learned a lot and I still believe there’s a lot to learn.”

Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja
Reinhold Messner and Nirmal Purja. “We talked and within 2 min of talking he said – Nims you will do it. Only those who believe in making the impossible can see this kind of vision – I guess ? It was an honour meeting the living legend of 8000ers and the man who believed in his vision from his heart.”